Style Trunk

Last weekend was the last long weekend in Sydney for a while so, like approximately 80% of the city's population, we decided to make the most of it and escape city life for a few days. This time, the destination was Orange - a high-altitude, cool climate wine region about 3.5 hours' drive west of Sydney.

It had been on our must-visit list for a while, thanks to its award-winning wineries and cellar doors (the places you go for tastings or a good old-fashioned piss up) and gastronomic prowess, renowned for championing local produce and turning it into delicious, innovative dishes.



Orange is a country town and like most that we've come across in Australia, didn't amount to a great deal (sorry, Australia) but it's the town's surrounds that you go for. We stayed in an airbnb about a 15 minute drive from Orange itself (tip: if you're there on a long weekend/bank holiday, make sure you book well in advance) - a small, restored miner's hut from the 1800s, complete with corrugated iron facade.

It was a great little spot - cosy, comfortable and peaceful - and probably best of all, it was about a 5 minute drive to Millthorpe, a small village (and by small I mean it has three streets) that has some great coffee shops (Millthorpe Providore is the best), restaurants (I've heard very good things about Tonic but it's on the expensive side) and cellar doors (go to Slow Wine Co. which also serves unbelievable tapas - probably the best we've had in Aus - on Friday and Saturday nights).


If you're not a massive drinker, there's plenty of bushwalking in the area, as well as Mount Canobolas (we did plan an early morning hike but...wine), and the landscape really is unspoilt. But let's face it, the real reason you come to Orange is for the wine. We drove around a few that took our fancy rather than doing an organised tour and honestly, they were probably some of the best wineries we've visited. They're laidback, very generous with the portions and most are good value (typically you'll spend $10 for a tasting which is redeemable on a bottle, should you want to make a purchase). Plus, a lot of them come with the option of cheese boards, olives etc. so you can have a wee snack while you're tasting.


We managed to get to five wineries across two days. There are loads more but they're mostly in amazing settings (looking out on rolling hills and vineyards) so we found we were stopping and staying a while rather than rushing from place to place.


Philip Shaw Wines - This is quite a famous one in the area and was busy when we were there on Saturday afternoon (note: the cellar doors typically close at 5pm, although they didn't seem to be strict on this). It's an unpretentious sort of place, with our waiter plying us with wine and giving us recommendations, while a fire roared on in the background. Make sure you try their No. 89 Shiraz, even if you're not a red drinker - it's their signature and has an amazing buttery, creamy taste (nicer than it sounds).



Swinging Bridge Wines - We got here at about 4.40pm and although were offered a tasting, just went for a glass of their Shiraz ($7!) instead. This is a small winery but the setting is incredible. You drive down a narrow dirt road and get to a small building sitting atop a hill, the vineyard right next to it. We took a seat outside next to a few fires they had on the go (it's currently winter, so it was pretty cold) and soaked up the sunset while we finished our drinks.

De Salis Wines - This winery sits on the slopes of Mount Canobolas and, as you can imagine, the vistas are pretty impressive. This is essentially a large shed, with all the tastings taking place outside so you make the most of those views. We loved this spot - it's family-run so you got that really personal vibe and they all work there together. Charlie, the owner, served us and was really knowledgeable (without being pretentious) and is happy for you to spend as long or as little time there as you like. The wines were all great too, and it seems to be the only place that does a Pouilly Fume (we came back with a bottle).




Nashdale Lane Wines - This is just across from De Salis and unfortunately, missed the mark for us a bit. It's a stylish place and again, views were amazing, but in comparison to De Salis it lacked that warmth and passion. The wines were nice but we weren't blown away and almost felt rushed through the tasting. It did seem more kid-friendly than the others though, if you're there with children, and if you like Riesling theirs is award-winning.


Angullong - This is tucked in a small cottage-like building in the middle of Millthorpe. The winery itself is about 40km outside of Orange so you don't get the surroundings like you do in the others but you do get some amazing wines. Their wine list is extensive and you can try them all (hic) or choose what you like the look of (you'll also be coerced into trying a few more). Unlike a lot of the wineries in Orange, they have a selection of Italian wines and was probably the best value in terms of price of the bottles (you're looking at around $20 rather than up to $90 in some of the other spots).

In short, Orange is a great getaway if you love food and wine in relaxed settings (if you've been to the Hunter Valley and didn't like how commercial it was, you'll love Orange). I'd go back in a heartbeat.

A couple of weeks ago we packed our bags, jumped in the car and headed south for a surprise trip I'd organised for my boyfriend's 30th. That trip was a few days in Jervis Bay - about a two and a half hour drive from Sydney - staying at Paperbark Camp (yup, I racked up some major girlfriend points). Through various articles and seeing it pop up on Instagram, I'd been aware of Paperbark Camp for a while and this seemed like the perfect excuse to treat myself as well as him (all in the name of equality), and let's just say it exceeded all expectations.



We drove up to the camp, driving through the tree-lined entrance to the bush with an ill-timed comment from Adam: "Camp? Ha, we better not be staying in a tent" (cue nervous laughter from yours truly). We were staying in a tent, but this tent was far removed from the last one we'd stayed in - namely a sweaty, damp, bargain bin number at Glastonbury a few years ago. Paperbark Camp is a glampsite and as much as I hate the word, it's probably the best way to describe it.



Safari tents are erected on large, elevated wooden decks and inside is a big double bed, bar cart and a couple of home comforts, with the back opening out into an open-air bathroom. Each tent is set away from the other for privacy (very much needed when you're showering al fresco) and being in the bush, the only sounds you'll hear are the birds and possums running around.


Paperbark has a restaurant on site, set in a treehouse in the middle of the camp. Each morning after some of the best nights' sleep we've had in a while, we'd be greeted with a flask of hot water sitting on our deck to make coffee, before ambling over to the restaurant for a long breakfast over the papers (and more coffee). We had dinner both nights that we stayed too and the food was incredible. It's a set menu and you don't know what you're getting until that night but unless you're a really fussy eater you won't be disappointed. The food is seasonal and locally-sourced, with fresh ingredients and interesting combinations of flavours, the wine list is extensive, and you finish off with the most delicious handmade truffles.


When we weren't eating, having long outdoor baths or catching up on some reading on the deck, we were exploring Jervis Bay and the many white sand beaches. Paperbark has bikes (and kayaks) you can take out for the day but to visit the infamous Hyams Beach (officially this beach has the whitest sand in the world, although we're not entirely convinced it's whiter than Whitehaven Beach in the Whitsundays) and the beaches in the national park, you'll be better off jumping in the car.


Hyams is great - but popular. For more seclusion, buying entrance to the national park (about $13 which allows 48 hours access) is well worth it. It sits right on the edge of the bay and is lined with countless beaches - from small spots like Murrays Beach (sheltered, calm waters, great for swimming) to large, rugged and wild like Cave Beach. Take a picnic (although you probably won't need much after breakfast at Paperbark) and hop around the beaches - or find your favourite and do nothing but lie on the powdery soft white sand and cool off in the crystal clear sea.


We left Paperbark in high spirits - completely rested, well fed, a little bit burnt (stock up on the factor 50, folks) and contemplating leaving the city for good for life in the bush. As tech-reliant millennials we won't of course, but we'll be back to Jervis Bay and Paperbark Camp for our fix.